Kroki

Question · Dog

How do I get my dog used to being brushed?

The short answer

First check for mats, sore skin or stiff joints, because many dogs who dislike brushing are uncomfortable. Then start again from zero: the brush appears, a treat follows, the brush goes away. Add a single stroke on an easy spot, then two, and let your dog walk away whenever it wants. Never pull through tangles or hold your dog down. Kroki, a reward-based training app for puppies and dogs, uses short steps and asks “How did it go?” to set the pace.

How to do it, step by step

  1. Rule out pain and mats first

    Run your hands gently over the coat. Tight mats pull on the skin with every stroke, and older dogs may have sore hips or backs. Mats close to the skin are a job for a groomer or vet practice, not for a training session.

  2. Change the brush and the setting

    If your dog has bad memories of one brush, buy a different one, such as a rubber curry brush or a soft glove. Work on a non-slip mat on the floor rather than a table, so a stiff or nervous dog feels steady.

  3. Brush appears, treat follows

    Show the brush, then give a treat. Put it away. Repeat until your dog looks at the brush and then at you, expecting the treat. For a dog that already backs away from the brush, this step may take several sessions.

  4. Teach a “ready” position

    Reward your dog for resting its chin on a cushion or your flat hand. Only brush while the chin stays down; if your dog lifts its head, stop brushing at once. This gives it a clear way to say “pause”, which makes many dogs calmer.

  5. One stroke at a time

    Brush once along the shoulder in the direction of the fur, then treat. Slowly build to a few strokes per treat on easy places. Leave the sensitive zones, often the tail, back legs and belly, until last.

  6. Brush little and often

    Two or three minutes a few times a week keep mats from forming, so each session stays easy. Stop before your dog asks you to, and end with something it likes, such as a sniffing game.

Starting with a puppy?

A puppy usually has no bad memories of the brush yet, so you can begin with sniffing and single strokes in the first weeks at home. It mostly needs a soft brush, a lick mat and very short sessions. The puppy page explains that gentler start.

Why brushing a grown dog takes patience

Vets at Cornell’s Riney Canine Health Center describe a cooperative approach to grooming: the dog takes part step by step at its own pace, rather than being held still. They suggest pairing grooming tools with treats before using them, keeping sessions short and predictable, and stopping while things still go well, because pushing past a dog’s comfort can set progress back. They also point out that regular brushing matters for double-coated dogs, since it helps prevent painful matting (Cohen 2026).

They list signs of stress worth watching for: licking lips, yawning when not tired, freezing, pulling away or showing the whites of the eyes (Cohen 2026). A grown dog that has been held down for grooming may show these signs early. Spotting them and pausing is how you rebuild trust.

Age is not a barrier. In a study with 95 Border Collies, older dogs learned new tasks more slowly, but age had no effect on how well they remembered what they had learned (Wallis and colleagues 2016). And forcing the issue is risky: a review concluded that aversive methods can harm dogs’ physical and mental health, with no evidence that they work better than rewards (Ziv 2017).

Special cases with grown dogs

  • Rescue dogs: give them weeks to settle in before you start, and begin with touch from your hand rather than the brush.
  • Senior dogs: brush lying down on a soft bed and keep sessions very short, so stiff joints are not strained.
  • Long, thick coats: book a groomer to clear existing mats first, then train on the short, easy coat.
  • Dogs that guard their body: some dogs freeze or growl at touch on one spot. Leave that spot alone and see the safety notes below.

Common mistakes with adult dogs

  • Brushing out a matted coat in one go. It hurts, and your dog remembers it.
  • Holding the collar or the dog to finish a side. It teaches that brushing means being trapped.
  • Scolding a growl. A growl is a warning, and without it a dog may skip straight to snapping.
  • Waiting until the coat is a mess. Short, regular sessions on a tidy coat make each one easy.

When to see a professional

If brushing still seems to hurt or frighten your dog, get help:

The help pages list services in Germany, Austria and Switzerland only. Elsewhere, ask your vet practice who they recommend near you.

Frequently asked questions

Why does my dog hate being brushed?

Most often brushing has hurt before, for example through pulled mats, or the dog was held down. Pain from joints or skin also plays a part, so a vet check is a sensible first step.

How do I brush a dog that bites the brush?

Stop brushing and go back to showing the brush and giving a treat, without touching. If your dog bites at hands or the brush in earnest, ask a behaviour professional before you go on.

Can I get an old rescue dog used to brushing?

Yes, older dogs can still learn, they just need more time and smaller steps. Let a rescue dog settle in first and begin with gentle touch from your hand.

Should I let a groomer handle a dog that hates brushing?

A groomer can safely clear existing mats, which removes a source of pain. Training at home afterwards keeps the coat tidy, so the next visit is easier.

Is a muzzle a good idea for brushing?

A muzzle can keep people safe while you get help, but only if your dog has learned to like wearing it first. It does not make brushing less frightening, so pair it with professional support.

How do I know when my dog wants a break during brushing?

Lifting the chin off its rest, licking lips, yawning, freezing or moving away all mean “pause”. Stop for a moment and continue with an easier spot or end the session.

Sources